Saturday, 1 November 2025

A dream realized, trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal

It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves. - Edmund Hillary

Our first glimpse of Everest was in 2014 during the Sandakfu trek. Giri and I discussed at that time that we should do the Everest base camp (EBC) trek in Nepal soon. In 2015, I went to Beijing and finding a two-week slot became difficult. In 2019 October, I did a Tibet tour with Foreigners Cina (FCN) along with my wife and daughter. This tour included a visit to the EBC in Tibet (5200 m) where we stayed overnight and watched the marvel of sunshine on Everest in the morning (https://chinadiarysite.wordpress.com/2019/10/27/an-amazing-week-in-tibet-a-wonderful-trip-to-the-everest-base-camp/). Still the urge to trek the EBC trail was unrelenting and the opportunity came this year as I took retirement from my work and had two to three weeks to spare. Giri expressed the desire. We decided to go ahead and I did some home work about the companies that offered the EBC trek. Based on our friends Pratap and Ganesh’s recommendation, we booked with Laxman Thapa Magar of Dream Success Trek and Expedition (https://dreamsuccesstrek.com/) for 88K INR in the beginning of August. As Laxman had couple of other trekkers from Kerala doing it from 5th October 2025, we opted to join them. Giri had done Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek before, and it was the first time in Nepal for me. Giri booked the air tickets for both of us.

Everest base camp in Nepal gained distinction after the 1953 Everest summit by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. In the early 1950s, climbers initially used the North Base Camp in Tibet, which was established by a British expedition in 1921. While Everest seekers still use it as their base, the trek to the base camp itself is like a pilgrimage for thousands of trekkers who take the trail every year.

While I was eagerly looking for the travel, just three weeks before the date, Nepal had major unrest in second week of September and things came to stand still for almost a week. Added to that, I got a bad back spasm around the same time, and found it very difficult to sit or stand, leave alone walking! This came as a shocker. I saw an orthopaedic who treated me. With the uncertainties, we were just hoping that things would improve. In a week’s time, I was better and started walking while the pain was still there.

After discussion with Laxman, we decided to fly to Kathmandu on 3rd October and reach Ramechaap on the same day. We were supposed to reach Lukla on 4th and start the trek on 5th. We flew to Kathmandu via New Delhi and reached 16:00. Laxman and his son welcomed us by offering the ceremonial Khata and marigold garlands. From the airport, we were taken to Hotel Manang in an Alto. There we left some clothes for using when we return from the trek. From the hotel, a Creta picked us up and proceeded towards Ramechaap. It was raining and roads were bad. Around 18:45, we reached a check post just outside the city, where a long queue of vehicles was parked. There was a huge commotion as the cops were not letting the vehicles to go forward due to heavy rains and bad road conditions. After spending some time there, Laxman decided to put us in a hotel (North Pole Inn) at nearby Dhulikhel. At the restaurant there, the only person who was present cooked fresh dal bhat for us and we had the dinner at 22:00. 

Kathmandu as seen from the aircraft


Welcome to Nepal!

Next morning Around 4:40, we left the place had breakfast on the way. A little ahead, on one side was the Tamkoshi river in full spate, and on the other side were thousands of mirrors of different sizes on the wall. These are offerings to the goddess Seti Devi Mata for protection against accidents on the dangerous road. Travelers can purchase and add their own mirrors to this display. 

The driver dropped us at Ramechap airport in Manthali at 8:30. There were some trekkers already there. Laxman had shared our Summit Air tickets, but the Summit Air as well as other airline counters had shown a notice that all flights were delayed due to bad weather. As it didn’t look like any flight possibility that day, we took a hotel room nearby. The room was neat and offered a great view of the small airport as well as the beautiful greenery around. The owner Ajay is an ex-serviceman from the Nepal army. It rained the whole day that day and most of the next day too. Next day evening when the rain stopped a little, we walked to Manthali town centre and had tea in a local restaurant. There was a group of people drinking and singing retro Hindi songs who offered us to join them. I just sang along a bit and we returned back to the hotel. At the airport we met Mohan, a solo trekker from Bangalore.

Ramechaap airport

Near Ramechaap airport

Ramechaap airport

Long-tailed Shrike

Manthali

With Mohan

Common evening brown

Notice at the airline counter

Nag Panchami poster at the airport

Day 1, 6 October 2025 – Manthali (474m) to Lukla (2860m) to Phakding (2610m): 

It was our third day in Manthali. Though it has been raining the past two days, we didn’t feel bored.  At 6:00, we went to the airport and checked at the Summit Air counter, and were told that they didn’t have any information yet. The flight has to come from Kathmandu, and it was important that the weather had to be conducive and Kathmandu, Ramechaap as well as Lukla. We went for breakfast and returned to the counter, where they said they were looking for us! Three airlines – Sita, Tara and Summit were operating with small 19-seater aircrafts. They weighed our bags. The limit was 15 kg per head, while we had together 6 kilos more. We paid excess baggage Rs 130/- NPR per kg. At 10:40, or flight took off and flew over the beautiful terrain of the green fields, rivers and hills. 


Our flight

The flight took around 20 minutes and we landed at the famous Tenzing-Hillary airport of Lukla. It is considered as one of the world's most dangerous airports due to its short, sloped runway, high altitude, and unpredictable weather. Landing requires specially trained pilots, as there is no room for error with a cliff at one end and a stone wall at the other.  We were received by our guide Ngima Lopchan (Nima), Porters Arjun and Davachiri and were taken to Hotel Hikers Inn. We had lunch there and waited for our trek mates to join us. Once they came and had their lunch, we were ready for our first trek. Both the trek mates were Rahuls! Elder one a physics professor at Trissur and the younger, his PhD student.  Our guide, Nima, was a very gentle person with great hiking experience. About eight years ago, he had worked in the Nepal Police force for six months, and was expelled by the DSP for excessive drinking! He is reformed now, and is the father of two sons. The two porters were 20 years old.


At 15:00, we started our trek, passed through the Pasang Lhamu gate, named after the first Nepalese woman to climb the summit of Mount Everest. Then we went through the town and proceeded along the Dudh Koshi River. The trail was initially downhill and uphill at places with cobbled stones in certain stretches. En route were several waterfalls, stupas, manis (stacked stones with prayers), couple of villages and suspension bridges. The five colour prayer flags were seen in various places. Many people were trekking along and some were also returning. There were porters, horses, mules and dzo (cross breed of Yak and Cow) carrying essentials. The trail also offered views of Kong De peak. We had taken around 3.5 hours for about 7 kms. It was a good trek for the first day. Around 18:15, we reached the Green Village Guest house where we had dinner and stayed that night.

Ready to go!

Mani stone


Pasang Lhamu gate









Phakding in the evening

Day 2, 7 October 2025 – Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m):

We left our hotel at 7:38 and continued on the path that we had taken the previous day. The trail gradually moved upwards. In about half an hour, we crossed the first suspension bridge, followed by few villages and several waterfalls. We arrived at the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park (Jorsalle-Monjo entrance gate) at 10:45. There is an arch and a Sagarmatha is the Nepali name for Everest and in Tibetan, it is known as Chomolungma. Nima purchased the entrance permit here. After the arch is a small enclosure that shows Buddhist paintings on the wall. As we continued, we could get sunning views of Kusum Kangru (6,367m) and we walked along the gorgeously flowing Dudh Koshi. After crossing one more suspension bridge around 11:30 we arrived at Hemanta lunch place at Jorsalle and I had dal bhat once again. 



















Post lunch the hike was steeper than before. It also started raining and we wore our ponchos.  On the way were more waterfalls and suspension bridges, the most famous one named as Hillary bridge. A parallel lower bridge has a platform for bungee jumping. Along with Kusum Kangru, Thamserku and Amadablam peaks also started becoming more prominent. At 16:00, we had the fist view of Namche Bazaar. The entrance gate had Buddhist paintings on the wall. Next to it are a series of prayer wheels that turn with the force of water that gushes below them. In the next 20 minutes we crossed busy shopping streets to reach our hotel “Snow land”. The rooms were spacious with an attached bathroom and the dining hall was large and well decorated. We had trekked around 12 kms that day. Before dinner, Giri and I roamed around in the streets of Namche Bazaar and explored the shops.









View from the room at Namche Bazaar

Day 3, 8 October 2025 – Acclematization hike from Namche Bazaar to Everest view hotel (3880m):

We had our breakfast and left the hotel at 7:35. Nima suggested that we can visit the local museum and then hike, and we set out for it. Giri felt it would be good to finish the hike and then visit the museum. That was certainly a better idea and we changed our direction. While hike was steep, it offered great views of many peaks including Everest. The trail also had excellent views if wild flowers. At 9:45 we reached the hotel Everest View. As the weather was good, most people were sitting in the open terrace outside the building. We also found a place there.  This part offered great views of the Everest range. I had a glass of milk. While we were there, we met a solo trekker from Italy and had a good conversation. At 11:30 we started to come down and reached the museum -Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Heritage center at 13:00.























The museum has a statue of Tenzing and shows displays about the life of Sherpas and Tenzing's and other’s expeditions.  The museum also showcases posters about tall peaks around the world and climate change effects. We returned to the hotel, had lunch and rested. In the evening, we again went around the shopping street. I bought a waist pouch and a cap. There are many shops that sell trekking gears. Namche Bazaar is considered as the gateway to Mount Everest. It is a cultural and trading hub, and is a crucial acclimatization stop for EBC trekkers. It is surrounded by major peaks like Kongde, Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, and Kangetega, with stunning views available from many sites.




Day 4, 9 October 2025 – Namche Bazaar (3440m) to Debuche (3820m) via Tengboche monastery (3,885m):

We left the hotel at 7:10 and via the Tashi Delek Monastery proceeded towards the trail that had cobbled path of steep ascent. It led to winding trail through forests of pine and rhododendron. At places the trail offered great views of multiple peaks, mainly Amadablam and sometimes Everest. The trail had stupas and manis, and one is supposed to pass them from the left side. In about three hours we reached Sanasa village (3600m). There were many restaurants and shops here. At 11:15, we stopped for lunch at Gora Tapting Fast food restaurant in the village Phungi Tenga. Once again, I had Dal Bhat. Just after lunch, we crossed a bridge and arrived at a check post. Here there were many prayer wheels. It took three hours steep hike to reach Tengboche Monastery.














Trash bins

Tengboche Monastery, also known as Dawa Choling Gompa, is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It is located on a hill at the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and the Imja Khola rivers. It was built in 1916 by Lama Gulu as a daughter monastery of the Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet. We visited the monastery that has typical Tibetan Buddhist features at a large Sakyamuni Buddha flanked by Manjushri, the deity of wisdom and Maitreya. The monastery has been renovated several times, notably by Edmund Hillary after the 1989 fire. It has a newer annex that has a highly ornate central pagoda. Around 15:30 we came out of the monastery and enjoyed the Everest view for some time. The trek from here to Debuche took about an hour of downhill walk. At 16:30 we reached Paradise Lodge at Debuche where we were going to stay. We had walked 11 kms from Namche Bazaar to here.










Room at Debuche

We went around the lodge to explore. There is a nunnery nearby. We met a travel agent old man from Bolivia who has been bringing trekkers to this region. That night I had pizza for dinner.

Day 5, 10 October 2025 – Debuche (3820m) to Dingboche (4410m):

In the morning, I did some photography around the hotel. After breakfast, we left at 7:20.  Very soon we crossed two major stupas. The stupas have Buddha faces with compassionate eyes drawn on the tower that reassure the trekkers. The trail was walking through the rhododendron forest and crossing a bridge over the raging Imja Khol River. There is a check post near which a booth to leave your excess luggage is available. The highlight of this trail is Amadablam. We get to see it all along, in different forms from different angles. Amadablam means mother and daughter. There are two peaks with 6812m and 6170m heights. The view of Amadablam was breathtaking from most parts of the trail. We also see Everest at places from this trail. 
















With Nima



Amadablam seen from Pangboche




The major village we get early on the way is Pangboche (3,985m). This is the base camp for Amadablam hikes. There is an upper and a lower Pangboche and both have considerable Sherpa population. Our lunch stop was Panorama Restaurant at Shomare (4010m). The dining hall had Tibetan Buddhist figures and from the windows we could see many major peaks. After lunch the ascent was steeper. We passed Chura (4145m) and continued through juniper shrubs along the river and reached our hotel, Moonlight lodge and restaurant at Dingboche at 14:00. The rooms were cosy considering the low temperature outside, and offered a great view of the mountains.






That afternoon we visited the “Café 4410” in front of our hotel. The café is a buzzing place with lot of activities. They have a great variety of snacks and beverages and one can charge mobile phones if one buys anything for 500 NPR. I took a latte and charged my phone. On the trail, we had mat a group of people from Bangalore who connected very well. They were here watching a 2015 movie ‘Sherpa’ that discussed about tough lives of Sherpas. We joined them in watching the movie. At 19:00, as Nima was calling us for dinner, we left the café and came back to our hotel. That evening, I had dal bhat with egg curry.

Cafe 4410

With the Bangalore group at Cafe 4410

Day 6, 11 October 2025 – Acclimatization hike to Nagarjung hill from Dingboche (5120m):

Nagarjung Dada, also known as Nagarjuna peak or Nangkartshang Peak is a popular acclimatization hike near Dingboche. This hike provides great views of the surrounding mountains such as Amadablam, Lhotse, and Island Peak are seen. It was 7:10 when we started from our hotel. We crossed a large stupa and started climbing up. It seems the showers few days ago led to early snowing in this region and the whole trail had soft fresh snow. The climb was also steep. While the air got thinner and the climb not easier, the view of the mountains around was wonderful. Around 10:00, Nima gave us an option to stop, but Giri and I decided to continue. Nima came with us and Rahul Sr and Jr decided to go back. At 11:30, we reached the top of Nagarjun peak. It was a wonderful feeling. For me, this was certainly the highest altitude so far. We also met our Italian friend Pedro on the trail. All along the trail we see many peaks, and more prominently see Makalu.








Coming down was a real challenge. Not expecting this much snow, I had left my crampons at home and the trail was extremely slippery and I fell a few times in spite of being highly careful! I also saw that the other trekkers were also falling and rolling. Giri tried sliding over the snow for some time. We returned to the hotel at 14:30 and had our lunch.


That evening we went to Café 4410 again and this time watched some part of the 2015 movie ‘Everest’. Our Bangalore friends had already left in the morning. The café certainly is a very happening place, and mobile charging by selling snacks and drinks is a great idea!

That evening, Giri and I brought crampons at a nearby shop for 2700 NPR each. At our hotel, I bought WiFi subscription for 500 NPR so that I could speak to family and share some photos and videos. For a change, I had pizza for dinner.

Day 7, 12 October 2025 – Dingboche (4410m) to Pyramid Institute in Lobuche (5050m):

Morning view from the hotel was beautiful with sunshine falling on the peaks. Nima said Lobuche is full and he couldn’t find a place. I requested Laxman to find a better alternative after Lobuche, and indeed he could arrange a stay at the Pyramid institute. We left the hotel at 7:10 and went via the same Stupa, that seemed like a junction for different trails. The initial path was gentle and we saw large meadows of snow with stone sheds in them. There was no more vegetation, no long suspension bridges and it was all snow-, and snow-covered peaks. The view of Amadablam was staggering. There were smaller bridges over steams. Around 11:00, we were at Thukla (Dugla, 4620m). It is a small village with few small buildings. We had lunch at Yak Lodge. I tried egg fried rice. Post lunch was a steep hike through Thukla pass that hosts memorials for the hikers who have lost their lives to summit Mt. Everest including a legendary climber Babuchiri Sherpa. Around 100 small and big memorials were built at different times. They have photos of the hikers as well as prayers inscribed on the tombs. On some tombs, the circumstances leading to the death of the hikers are mentioned.












We climbed through a zig zag path in the middle of snow to reach Lobuche at 14:30. This village is named after a prominent peak in the region. This village has few hotels and has a helipad too. A chopper landed and took off when we were passing by. A new hotel was being built and carpentry was in progress. Continuing further for 20 minutes, we saw the board of the Pyramid International Laboratory-observatory. Five minutes from there we arrived at the place.







The centre began as a joint venture between the Italian and Nepali Governments, although the former no longer sponsors the site. It consists of a stone building as the base, and on top there's a transparent observatory shaped like a pyramid covered by solar panels. The lodge that operates in this building is called 8000 Inn. We were given a dorm with five beds. The package here included hot shower, that was very refreshing! They also had a good variety of dishes and I had noodles for dinner. It seemed like the place was designed for delegates attending meetings and is being used as a lodge now.

Day 8, 13 October 2025 – Lobuche to Gorakshep (5180m) to EBC (5364m):

This was the day we were looking forward to for a long time! Morning was beautiful with sunshine falling on the mountains. We started earlier than normal, at 6:00, returned to the same spot where we had seen the board yesterday, and joined the trail. It was freezing in the morning, but we warmed up as we moved. The crampons were useful as the path was all through snow. The view of all the major peaks around us was stunning. Around 8:40, we met our Bangalore friends who were returning after EBC. The movement was slow as there were many people slowly hiking through a tricky trail. At 9:50, we were at the Himalaya Lodge and Restaurant at Gorakshep (also called as Gorakshe, 5180m).










The lodge has a Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj statue. While Rahul and Rahul had their lunch, we packed the sandwich. At 10:35, we stated from the lodge and hit the trail. Giri went ahead with Arjun, and I followed. The uneven path was rocky and had moraine, with lot of snow. It was 12:30 when I reached the base camp. There were many people. Unlike the Everest basecamp in Tibet, there are no sheds or permanent structures here. It is disappointing that there is not even a proper board that shows the name and the altitude!  There is a large rock that has a graffiti of Everest Base Camp, on which, and in front of which people pose for photographs. But the same rock also has unwanted graffiti! Nevertheless, EBC in Nepal is a very large area surrounded by tall mountains and Khumbu glacier. The photos or videos don’t do justice to the beauty of this place! We could also see avalanches breaking in distant mountains. There was a competition among people to get on to the big rock. A large group from Taiwan had arranged a lady’s birthday there and the whole group got on to the the rock!




Rock marking the altitude at EBC

With a cairn at EBC

Once our teammates came, we also posed for photographs both solo as well as in group. I borrowed an India flag from a co-trekker from Mumbai and posed for a photograph. He is an IT professional, trekking EBC with his 11th grade daughter. Their group had a 65-year-old lady doctor, Swarna from the US, originally from Mysore. There were also many westerners who were quite aged. There was a Chinese old lady solo hiker, hiking without poles!

We started from coming down from EBC at 14:00 and reached Gorakshep at 16:00. We had walked around 12 kms that day. The Himalaya Lodge at Gorakshep was filled with people, some who had finished EBC and others who were yet to finish. The view from our room was amazing with the sunset hues. Nima said that we had to book the dinner time slot as there were more people.  The large dining hall was full. We had an early dinner at 17:30.



View from the room

Day 9, 14 October 2025 – Gorakshep (5180m) to Pheriche (4371m):

Next morning at 4:00, Giri and Junior Rahul went to Kalapatthar. Senior Rahul and I decided to skip the Kalapatthar trek. I wanted to finish the rest of the trek without any issues and didn’t want to take more risks. I couldn’t sleep and went around clicking pictures around our lodge. We had breakfast after they returned from Kalapatthar and left the place at 9:30. Nima said Laxman wanted the stop to be at Pangboche, but he felt Pheriche will be a better option.







The downhill trail was the same that we had taken while coming and the first major village was Lobuche where we reached at noon. Saw one more helicopter taking off from Lobuche. The hotel that was being built with wooden planks was almost ready.

Further down, we crossed the memorial park and Thukla pass, and at 14:00 reached Kalapatthar Lodge at Thukla where we had lunch. The trail was beautiful offering views of Mount Everest, Nuptse, Pumori, Ama dablam, Thamserku, Lobuche, Cholatse, Taboche and other many Himalayan peaks. We were also walking next to roaring Imja Khola river which is a tributary of the Dudh Koshi river. We reached Himalayan Lodge at Pheriche at 16:25. The lodge was very impressive, with a large dining hall. It was also ideally placed with a large open space to its left followed by the views of Amadablam and other mountains.






Pheriche valley


I spent time outside photographing the nature. The cloud covered on Amadablam cleared and the peaks turned gold with the evening sunshine. We had dinner at 18:30. The restaurant showed advertisements of many trek companies, including ours-Dream success. They also had great collection of wines and whiskies.


Amadablam turned into gold

Day 10, 15 October 2025 – Pheriche (4371m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m):

I did some photography in the morning. The sight of sunrise was beautiful. I had Tibetan bread with omelette for breakfast. We started our trek at 8:00. We knew that it was going to be a long day. Soon we crossed a suspension bridge. Unusually, the trail didn’t have much crowd. In an hour we were at Chura, on the same trail that comes from Dingboche. Next was Shomare village. Views were amazing. Around 11:00, we crossed a suspension bridge and then Debuche village. Around noon we were near the Tengboche monastery and enjoyed the Everest view. Here we had lunch at Tashi Delek restaurant that is right in front if the monastery. I had soup noodles. At 13:30, we left Tengboche and proceeded further. We got another suspension bridge neat Phunki Tenga at 14:45. Next we crossed the Gora Tapting restaurant where we had eaten our lunch a week ago. Next was Tashinga (Lawishasa) at 15:30. 


Potato, the staple diet

Heating water with solar energy

Room







Around 16:00 we saw a glimpse of a Himalayan Thar, but couldn’t capture the photo well enough. Around 16:20, we crossed Sanasa village. A little later, we met Mohan on the trail near Kynajuma. Mohan had tanned considerably since we had met him at Ramechaap. He said he couldn’t get a lodge at Gorakshep and had to stay in porter’s shed. A little further we witnessed amazing sunset on Everest, turning the mountains in to gold! Nima and Rahuls were already ahead and Nima returned looking for us. We reached out hotel Snowland at Namche Bazaar at 18:30. We were on the trail for almost 10.5 hours and had walked 21 kms.













Happiness upon swinging

Himalayan Thar



Everest turned to gold!


Namche Bazaar in the evening

Day 11, 16 October 2025 – Namche Bazaar (3440m) to Lukla (2860m):

This was the last day of our trek. One more long walk expected. We started from our hotel at 6:45 after breakfast, passed the big stupa and took the downward trail. View of Kongde peak was remarkable. In an hour’s time I met Lenin and his team. They were all expat Indians from different parts of US. We kept meeting on the trail on different days and had great connect. Next was the suspension bridge over Dudh Koshi near Larcha Dovan (2935m). After the bridge we walked along the river and crossed another bridge near Jorsalle. At 9:15 we crossed the Sagarmatha National Park gate and the check post, and at 9:30 we were at Monjo village. The houses here are surrounded by colourful flowers that make the atmosphere even more beautiful. 




With Lenin












After that was Benkar village which has a prominent stupa and a big waterfall. Next was Toktok village that looked fairly big and also has a waterfall. At 12:15 the suspension bridge was just before Phakding. At 12:30 we reached Green Village guest house at Phakding where we had stayed during our onward trek. Now this was our lunch stop. After a good rest, we continued at 14:00 and reached our hotel “Hiker’s Inn” at Lukla at 17:00. This was the place where we had lunch on the first day. The owner lady is quite enterprising. She also helped up with our flight the next day.




Thanks for candy, but no photo!




As it was our last day, we had dinner with our porters Arjun and Davachiri. We also gave tips to Nima and the two porters thanking them for their help during the long trek. Later we visited a nearby pub that had mostly western crowd celebrating. The pub also had a pool table.

Day 12, Lukla to Katmandu via Ramechaap:

Next morning at 6:30 we were at the Tenzing Hillary airport in Lukla. Nima and the porters bid us farewell by offering the ceremonial Khata. We went in only to realize that the airport was a big mess and several people were waiting to catch the flight. We had seen that several of our friends flew from Lukla to Kathmandu, and at the airport Kathmandu flights were having priority. We requested Laxman to try and get us tickets for Kathmandu, but he said it was not possible. We were dreading about the journey from Ramechaap to Kathmandu!

In spite of all the uncertainties, our turn came and our Summit Air flight took off at 8:45. We landed at Raamechap at 9:10 and were received by Bobby, Laxman’s son with Khata yet again. We then moved to Kathmandu in a Scorpio. This wasn’t as comfortable as the Creta we had during onward journey. The road was non motorable in several stretches. It seems last years floods destroyed the highway. We had lunch on the way and reached Hotel Manang in Kathmandu at 16:10. Our return flight to Bangalore was on 21st, that I asked Giri to cancel and booked a flight for 18th afternoon. Rahuls were also traveling by the same flight. Giri wanted to meet friends at Kathmandu and booked flight for 20th. That evening we went around the streets of Kathmandu, did some shopping and had dinned at a pure veg restaurant ‘Tulasi’. I requested Laxman to let us visit Pashupatinath temple before catching the flight and he agreed.


Next morning at 9:00 Bobby came with a large van. His cousin Rishal was also with him. All of us went to the temple.

Pashupatinath Temple is a revered Shiva temple located on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River in Kathmandu, Nepal. The temple is one of the oldest and most significant religious complexes in South Asia. The art and architecture of the temple are amazing. It is large complex and there are smaller temples representing 12 jyotirlingas. The entry ticket for foreigners is 1000 NPR, while for Indians it is free. There are ghats in the complex on the river bank where creation is done. Across the river the ghats are for rituals. Entrance of the temple is impressive and inside is huge gold-plated Nandi. The main deity is Shivling with four faces - Sadyojata, Vamadeva, Tatpurusha, and Aghora. There seems to be an invisible fifth face - Ishana. The boys gave us a good tour before dropping us at the airport. Once again at the airport, they saw us off with Khata. The Nepal airlines flight was comfortable and I reached Bangalore in the evening.



While I had my doubts about my fitness before the hike, fortunately there were no major niggles other than some burning of shoulders due to the backpack. Also, I didn’t really see any altitude issues. I am really happy to have completed EBC and having witnessed the wonder of so many Himalayan peaks along with the famed Everest. Some of my thoughts here:

  • With so many foreign visitors coming, the foreign exchange earned must be really high. That doesn’t reflect in the infrastructure or working conditions of the porters. There is also a good income for the helicopters as many people trek one way and return by helicopters. Some people also do partial or whole trail on horseback.
  • Porters are the soul of the trails. They carry so much weight on a trail that is not easy even to walk without any luggage. Most of the essentials, building materials are all carried by the porters. Sometime they carry 80-90 kgs of weight at a time. Other than the porters there are horses and dzo (male) or dzomo (female) that are cross between cow and yaks. Many times, the trekkers have to wait for the caravan of these animals to go through. Things go on becoming expensive as we go up. A water bottle which is 20 NPR in Katmandu becomes 500 NPR at Gorakshep.
  • The whole trail is generally clean in spite of so much traffic. Trash bins are kept in many places.
  • Dogs do follow you sometimes. The instruction is not to take them along. If you ignore them and stop for some time, they will return to their original places.

I wish to thank my family for the support, thanks to Giri for making this happen, thanks to Mr Laxman and Dream Success expedition. Thanks to Nima, a very good guide, and porters Arjun and Davachiri. Thanks to Rahul senior and junior for nice company. I met many people on the trail who left a lasting impression. Thanks to all of them.

 

 

 

 



























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