Exploring the unexplored, back to the Western Ghats!

It was already three years since our last western ghat trek to Netravati peak (https://balutreks-balachandra.blogspot.com/2023/02/trek-to-beautiful-netravati-peak.html) and the trek group was getting eager to go to a new place. In between we had Himalaya treks and a day trek to Madhugiri, but the excitement of western ghat trek was elusive. It was also due to the fact that permissions were not available to hike many peaks in the western ghats. Hari was constantly looking for a new hike and came us with this plan to hike relatively unknown peaks near Chikmagalur. It is possible that as he wasn’t very clear, he didn’t tell us where we were going. With all trust on Hari’s experience, twelve of us agreed for the hike and paid advance.

On Friday, 20^th February night, we left Bangalore and as usual had convenient pick up spots for people staying in different areas. I had the privilege of getting picked up from my home at 23:10 and we proceeded to the last pick up, Gorgunte palya where Sujith and Naveen were picked up. The force traveller sped towards Hasan Road and we knew that we were going close to Chikmagalur. At 4:00, we reached Honey Beatle home stay at Katrumane, about 16 kms from Chikmagalur toward Shringeri. Owner Mr. Santosh welcomed us and we took a rest for a couple of hours. The home stay is spacious and comfortable. I got up by 6:00, freshened up and went birdwatching for some time. There were many birds nearby mainly black headed ibis, red-vented bulbuls and verity of swallows.

We had a delicious breakfast of Paddu and puliyogare at 8:30. Our guide, Mr Nagesh was waiting for us. We left the camp at 9:05 after taking a customary group photo at the Home Stay. The trail to our first peak, Thottilappana gudi was about 2.5 kms though coffee estates and we reached in about 1 hour. We had plans to finish two peaks in the morning and two in the afternoon. Thotiilappana gudi is a small temple that has a Shivalinga inside. Nagesh said pilgrims come some time, and every year in April a temple fair is held here when many people visit the hill and the temple. The view all around was great. We clicked many phots and also jumped around. We could see the next peak we were going to climb from here. 

At 11:00, we left for our next destination, the Madlegal gudda. While it looked near, the path was circuitous, and in many places, we had to pass through narrow, tricky places. Nagesh went ahead and confirmed the route before we pursued it. It was 12:35 by the time we reached the Madlegal gudda peak negotiating the slippery trail. The all-round sight was amazing offering a great view of many major peaks in the region. Someone had installed a pole here with a nylon bag that works like a flag. We spent about half an hour here and started descending. The descent was tricky leading to normal trail through coffee estates. The estate owner suggested way through estate to Nagesh, but he felt main road is better. As we had to walk a lot for Rangana betta, we decided to skip Bandekallu gudda. Some of us were also running out of water. It took 90 minutes walking reach Dharmegouda’s house where we stopped for lunch. We finished our packed lunch of pulav here. Dharmegouda offered not only water, but also curds. Renu recognised him as a old contact and it was a nice reunion for them. As Harish was struggling, Hari arranged for a bike to drop him to the home stay.  

At 15:00 we left the place and started walking through the road to Rangana betta. It was hard to walk on the road. We covered about 5 kms in about 90 minutes and arrived at a school in Kallugudde village. Rangana betta was another two kms from here. We got the Force Traveler to come and drive us to the temple. It was 17:00 when we reached base of Rangana betta.

Rangana betta is a large hillock with a hidden treasure inside it, the cave temple of Ranganathaswamy. At the base, there is a small Anjaneya temple. There are steep steps to go up and enter the cave. The railings are actually water pipes with faucets at places, but there is no water flowing now. Nearby villagers highly revere the place and offer regular prayers here. It is known that earlier, the cave was a regular meditation site for sages.

We went up, had Darshan and sat in the cave. The vibration of the place was amazing. We sang “Ranga, Vitthala..” in unison. It was a divine feeling! The cave temple has three entrances. There is a step ladder and chain to climb up, but we didn’t try as it was already getting late. The view from here also is wonderful. At 17:45 we came down, caught our vehicle and returned to the Home Stay.

There was a refreshing coffee when we returned. Santosh said they use homegrown cofee. I had a refreshing cold shower. Later we had a ‘spirited’ karaoke session with campfire.

Next morning I went for a birding walk with Hari and Harish and got to see more birds than the previous day. After coming back, we freshened up, had delicious breakfast of idly and pulav. At 9:00 we bid adieu to Santosh and drove to Ukkada waterfalls. The drive was 30 kms via Mallanduru and Muthodi in Bhadra wildlife reserve. 

At 10:30, we reached a stream beyond which driving was not possible. From here, we started walking looking for the waterfall, but lost our way and what could have been 15 minutes became 1 hour 15 minutes! After roaming endlessly through the wild coffee estates where no one was working, we reached falls. The entry to the falls requires rock climbing and getting down using tree roots. There was a group playing under the falls when we went. Ukkada falls is glorious with abundant water falling from a great height providing a wonderful massage! The bottom of the falls is very comfortable to stand and enjoy the force. 

After about an hour, we walked back to our vehicle and started towards Bangalore. We had lunch at Chikmagalur on the way. There was huge traffic build up on Tumkur Road, and our driver cleverly took a detour to avoid it, saving precious time. Most people got down at Madavara metro station and few at Gorgunte palya. I was the last one to be dropped at 20:55.

This western ghat trek came after a gap of three years. While we didn’t go to known places, the experience of the three small peaks and a waterfall was amazing! The three peaks gave a great view of the major peaks around Chikmagalur. Thanks to Hari for once again meticulously organizing it, thanks to my wonderful trek mates, to the driver for excellent driving and to Santosh’s family for their hospitality.